Working towards a half armored impression like you see in 15th century manuscripts. Here I have a maille shirt, jack, arms, spaulders, gauntlets, bevor, and sallet on. The last image is from John Lydgate Troy Book; Siege of Thebes. Royal 18 D II f.66v. Hector slaying Patroculus). As you can see it depicts men fighting on foot with the same combination of arms I am wearing (sometimes with leg armor) in these photos.
This shield is constructed based on historical remains of shields from
Gokstad and several other sites. The shield boss and handle (from Catherine's Quest Medieval Wares).
The shield is made of two standard white pine 1x10s and ran them through a wood planer to be 6mm thick instead of 3/4 of an inch. 6mm is less than half an inch.
The edges were glued together with standard wood glue and then large clamps were used to hold then together; you have to be careful not to over tighten the clamps at this point or the boards just come apart from the middle.
When dry the shield was a square that was about 38x38 or so; the boards did get a little shorter out towards the edge but were large enough to make a 36 inch round shield with extra to cut off. The boards flexed badly so the outer circle and inner circle were marked while flat on a table and the inner circle was cut first. A piece of scrap material was then screwed onto the planks to make a temp handle going the Cosplay Costumes UK opposite direction of the planks (just like the final handle) to hold the boards together so it would not flex and break while the outer shape was cut out.
Then it was hand sanded to make sure the edges where your hand is in the boss is splinter free as well as both surfaces front and back.
The milk paint was mixed (http://www.milkpaint.com just add water) a few coats of paint are added to the shield over a couple of days and then sealed it with a natural sealant (also from the milk paint co).
Small pilot holes are drilled for the boss and handle; the same holes we used from the temp handle for the good handle. Then Tremont cut nails (http://www.tremontnail.com) were used to affix the metal boss and handle. The nail tips were then bent over and clinched into the back of the boards.
Raw hide strips 2 1/2 inches wide were stretched over the edge of the shield giving little more to material the back than the front and then was tacked it down with push pins and left to dry. Important note is that raw hide shrinks when it dries so give some overlap to your pieces.
After it dried the push pins were removed and the lacing holes were drilled linen cord was used for the lacing.